.::::Bike Care::::.

First Of All my heartiest congratulations to those people who is now going to enjoy the two wheel thrill,

secondly, now you need to take care of your ride too
so here is a basic bike care Guide
hope this will help you...

Basics

Read the owner’s guide in detail for an understanding and familiarization with the mechanism and controls. If you have any questions, I recommend that you ask your authorized dealer or service center to ensure you are using the vehicle properly. I also recommend that in case the vehicle may be ridden by anyone other than yourself, you educate them on proper usage. Incorrect vehicle operation can lead to damage. Maintenance: The ownership experience of any automotive product is strongly affected by usage and maintenance. A vehicle is a machine, and is subject to wear and tear during daily use as well as damage resulting from accidents, adulterated fuel etc. I strongly advise that you study your owner’s manual and follow the maintenance schedules to ensure optimum performance of the machine and a hassle free ownership experience. Recommended servicing schedules: Keep the Bike serviced always on right time. Your owner’s manual includes instructions and coupons for availing the company recommended servicing program. The coupons are accepted at all authorized dealerships and service centers. Please follow the recommended servicing schedules. Service centers and spare parts: Use authorized dealerships and service centers for regular maintenance and repairs on your vehicle as these are equipped with necessary trained manpower, equipment and facilities to take care of your vehicle. Please always use genuine spare parts as they will ensure safety and longevity of your vehicle.

Safe riding tips

urges you to practise safe riding. Here are a few tips: Familiarize yourself thoroughly with your vehicle by reading this Owner’s Guide and following operating instructions - especially starting, acceleration and braking Initially, practice riding in an uncongested area before participating in regular traffic Stay within speed limits dictated by road, weather and traffic conditions. Riding at a proper speed and avoiding unnecessary acceleration is important for your safety, lowered fuel consumption and ensuring smooth operation and longevity of your vehicle If you must ride during heavy or light rain, exercise greater caution to avoid skidding To avoid head injury caused by accidents, always wear a helmet (conforming to appropriate specified standards) and other protective apparel such as gloves, boots, etc. When faced with speed breakers, wet roads and potholes, go slow to avoid loss of control and mechanical damage to your vehicle During braking, use both front and rear brakes to retain control Always follow applicable traffic rules including never overtaking from the left; and general traffic signals Always carry paperwork of vehicle registration, insurance, PUC certificate and a valid driving license with you

Safe Loading and accessories

General guidelines to help you decide how to equip your vehicle and how to load it safely: Do not overload your vehicle’s storage. Stay within recommended weight limits Do not store flammable articles as they may get ignited from engine heat and start a fire Ensure all luggage and accessories are secure for stable handling Do not carry items that protrude through the vehicle and affect vehicle performance and operation Do not carry children or pets on the foot board Do not modify the vehicle. It has been carefully designed by experts and any modification can have impact on several features

Daily safety checklist

Before riding, be sure to check the following for assured safety. In case of any irregularity, refer to the Owner’s Guide and contact your dealer for repair. Do not ride your vehicle unless it is restored to full safety. There is enough fuel to cover your planned journey, and there are no fuel leaks Engine oil level is adequate Throttle play is smooth and the throttle grip opens and closes smoothly in all steering position Steering lock is operating well Brakes are not dragging All electricals (lights and horns) are working Center stand and side stand are at fully up position Tyres have correct air pressure, adequate tread depth and no cracks/cuts Rearview mirrors are positioned to give good visibility

Maintenance Tips

Basics of two-wheeler maintenance Following are the basics for maintaining your two wheeler. Please also refer to the detailed maintenance schedules later in the Owner’s Guide. Check fuel lines and connections to ensure there is no leakage Speak plugs must be inspected and cleaned thoroughly Check engine oil levels and be sure to use recommended grade and quantity only Always maintain recommended tyre pressures Clean and adjust carburetors; adjust idling speeds Check air filter element periodically Ensure brakes are working well (i.e. not dragging or binding) Maintenance instructions are based on an assumption that the vehicle will be used exclusively for its designed purpose. Sustained high-speed operation or operation in unusually wet or dusty conditions will require more frequent service than specified in the maintenance schedule. Consult your authorized service center for recommendation applicable for your individual needs and usage. Maintenance precautions If your vehicle is overturned or involved in a collision, inspect control levers and cables, switches and other vital parts for damage. Do not ride the vehicle if damage impairs safe operation. Have your authorized service center inspect the major components including frame, suspension and steering parts for misalignment and damage that you may not be able to detect. Stop the engine and support the vehicle securely on a level surface before performing any maintenance Use new, genuine spare parts for maintenance and repair as dubious quality parts may impair the safety of your vehicle and effective operation of the emission control systems. Don’t forget to pay attention to: Engine oil: Engine oil plays an important role in ensuring smooth operation and maintenance of your vehicle and it is important to maintain a correct engine oil level. Tyres: Optimum air pressure in the tyres of your vehicle is important for maximum road grip, stability, riding comfort and longevity of the tyres. You should check your tyre pressure regularly and adjust immediately if required. The tyre pressure should be checked when the tyres are cold, before you ride. You must replace your tyres before tread depth at the center falls below a minimum limit of 0.8 mm for front or rear tyre. Air cleaner: The air cleaner must be serviced at regular intervals. If riding in dusty areas, it should be serviced more frequently. Battery: Your vehicle (esp. scooter) may be equipped with a battery (located in the glove box) that operates electricals. Running your vehicle without battery/poor condition of battery can damage several electrical parts. The battery breather tube must be properly routed. Do not bend or twist the breather tube. A bent or kinked breather tube may pressurize the batter and damage its case. It is important to ensure that the battery has sufficient electrolyte to avoid sylphation and battery plate damage. Please refer to the owner’s guide on how to ensure electrolyte levels.

General Tips for maximizing fuel efficiency

While your vehicle has been designed to give maximum fuel efficiency output for its specifications, it is important to understand that fuel efficiency is affected by several extraneous factors. To maximize the mileage you obtain in your daily cycle, following action plan is recommended: Ensure tyre pressure is maintained at manufacturer recommended levels. Different tyre pressures are recommended for single seat and pillion seat. Observe them carefully. Brakes - both brakes should have the right amount of free play Engine oil should be changed religiously and on the dot Do service your engine and tune it up regularly. Pay special attention to cleaning the carb and maintaining valve clearances. Dont neglect the spark plug, ensure its clean and the gap is set correctly. Replace it if its past its prime. Use choke on cold starts Weight on the two wheeler makes a big difference to mileage. Buy fuel in the morning as it is sold by volume and expands during the day when it gets hot Keep your two wheeler clean and dust free Do not tank up to the beam as there can be spillage and petrol can expand and overflow. Tank up from busy and well known petrol stations where quality and quantity are assured Do not rev the engine Use the choke while starting up. Run the two wheeler for a few Km with the choke on and at low revs while the engine warms up after which dont forget to shut off the choke. There is no need to rev or over rev the engine either while starting up or shutting down. Try and avoid congested roads as far as possible, even if it means you have to take a slightly longer route Go gentle on the throttle

Running-in procedure

It is important to properly “run-in” your vehicle during initial 1000 kms to ensure longevity and hassle free running since new engine components wear in quickly. Please follow these instructions during “running-in” period: Do not exceed a speed limit of 50kmph Avoid full throttle operation, and rapid acceleration When you start the engine, run it at idle for a minute to enable the oil to lubricate the engine Do not run at constant speed. Vary engine speed

Cleaning procedure

It is important to clean your vehicle regularly to protect surface finish and inspect it for damage, wear and oil seepage. Avoid spraying high pressure water at the following areas: o Wheel hubs. Silencer outlet o Ignition switch, handlebar switches and other electrical parts o Underseat or in the glove box After cleaning, rinse the vehicle thoroughly with plenty of clean water to avoid corrosive detergent residues Dry the vehicle, start the engine and let it run for several minutes Test the brakes before riding in traffic. Several applications may be necessary to restore normal braking performance

Anti theft tips

Always lock the steering and never leave the key in the ignition switch Be sure that the registration information for your vehicle is accurate and correct Park your vehicle in a locked garage whenever possible Put your name, address & phone number in your Owner’s Guide and keep it in your vehicle at all times. Often, stolen vehicles are identified by Owner’s Guides which are still with them.

Non-use maintenance

If your vehicle remains off-road for a long time, some steps for maintenance are required. Following this procedure before storing your vehicle will prevent it from rusting and other possible damage or hazards. Clean the vehicle thoroughly Empty all fuel from the fuel tank and carburetor float bowl Remove the spark plug and put several drops of engine oil into the cylinder. Kick the engine over slowly several time to coat the cylinder wall with oil and reinstall the spark plug Put the vehicle on a box/stand such that both wheels are raised off the ground. Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces to prevent rusting. Avoid getting oil on rubber parts/brakeliners Lubricate control cables Cover the entire vehicle neatly. Please ensure that the area where the vehicle is stored away is well ventilated and free from any source of flames or spark Remove batter from vehicle, maintain electrolyte level at upper level. Ensure the battery if fully charged, and recharge it monthly Keep the battery away from rain, moisture and direct sunlight. Store it in a cool, dry and safe place. Preparation for bringing it back into regular use Clean the vehicle Check electrolyte level in the battery, charge if necessary and install in the vehicle. Ensure that the battery vent hose is not pinched, and that it is correctly routed Make sure the spark plugs are tightly fitted Fill the tank with fuel Change the engine oil Go through the daily safety checklist Check and if required, inflate tyres to recommended air pressure

Caution for High Altitude Riding

When riding a vehicle at high altitudes, the air-fuel mixture can become excessively rich. Above 1500 meters, driveability and performance may be reduced and fuel consumption may increase. See your authorized service center for high altitude adjustments. Important! Return your vehicle to standard factory specifications when lower altitude riding is desired. Sustained operation at altitudes below 1500 km with high altitude carburetor modifications can cause engine overheating and damage.

Yamaha RX-100, The Legend......

Yamaha RX 100

The Yamaha RX100 is a 98cc 2-stroke single cylinder air cooled motorcycle. It was M/s Escorts Limited's "Bread and Butter" model for close to 12 years between 1985 and 1996. A nippy motorcycle with great handling, it was an instant hit with the masses. A great machine, all that was ever changed in the 11 year production history were the pinstriping and an upgrade to a 12 volt electrical system

History

Escorts Limited partnered with Yamaha Motor Corp. in 1983 to launch the RajDoot 350 a license produced Yamaha RD350B. Another player in the Indian 2 wheeler market was IND-SUZUKI (TVS Motor Company today) which, as the name suggests, joined hands with Suzuki to launch the 8.25 bhp (6.15 kW) IND-SUZUKI AX100 in 1984.

Taking a page out of TVS- Suzuki's book Escorts soon realized that sales success lay in smaller displacement bikes that are more economically priced and cheaper to run. Thus launched the YAMAHA RX100 in late 1985 (Workshop Manual is dated May 1985). The bike was originally available in Cherry-Red, Flamboyant-Blue(Peacock blue-green) Black and Silver. The first lot bikes (1985-1986) were CKDs and were simply assembled in India. The gearbox covering just above the gear shift lever had the words "MADE IN JAPAN" embossed on it.

Incidentally, the speedometer casing in the early bikes had the lettering "RAJDOOT" on them as did the speedometer dial. These older meters were manufactured by Yenkay. As opposed to later ones made by Pricol which had ESCORTS and later YAMAHA casings and dials. Few parts like the 2-stroke oil pump cover which is circular, had "Rajdoot" embossed instead of the expected YAMAHA or ESCORTS. This gives the idea that maybe, Escorts wanted to launch the bike as the "Rajdoot 100" in the same league with the Rajdoot 350.

The only major change that the bike underwent was that it was upgraded from a 6V electrical system to a 12V system. Apart from that, the pinstriping was changed 2 times. So there are 3 different decal types in all. The bike is legendary in every possible way. Two other colors (Wine red and Metallic blue) were also introduced, but the bike stayed the way it was for it's 11 year history.

Technical Specifications

The specifications are:

• Engine: 2-stroke, air cooled, single cylinder gasoline.
• Displacement: 98 cc
• Gearbox: 4-speed constant mesh
• Induction: Reed Valve
• Ignition: Capacitor Discharge Ignition
• Clutch: Multiplate (4 nos) wet.
• Output: 11PS @7500 rpm (As per Workshop Manual)
• Chassis: Double cradle frame
• Wheels: Wire spoked, 2.50" X 18" front tyre, 2.75" X 18" rear tyre.
• Acceleration 0-60 km/h in 7 seconds (As per Workshop Manual) but can actually reach 60 km/h within 5 seconds.
• Top speed 100 km/h (As per owner's manual)

Legacy

The bike's production run lasted from Nov 1985 - Mar 1996. Various modifications like expansion chambers, Drum brakes and 5th gear. The model was followed by the 11.8 bhp 132 cc RXG, which had a faulty ignition system, which was replaced by the company at no cost. Next came the RX135, which was essentially a rebadged RXG. The RXZ was launched with a sportier headlamp fairing. Finally , in the year 2000-2001 were launched the 14 bhp (10 kW) RX135 and the RXZ (Both 5-speed with a catalytic converter silencer). These met with luke warm response. The final variant was a 4-speed RX135 with a catalytic converter silencer, sporting a fuel gauge and speedometer with white dials which was sold very briefly in 2003.

The newest RX100s available in the market today are 12 years old. Yet, there are people who are still looking out for one. The old advertising campaign slogans "Born to Lead" and "Ahead of the 100s" are aptly justified by this mean machine.

The scream of the engine still evokes strong emotions of speed and power.

The RX100 was everything for every one:

• A racy, noisy smelly 2-stroke for the power hungry
• A reliable ride for the family man
• A style statement (back then) for the youth.

A peppy little machine with great handling makes this bike an ideal commuter. The gear ratios and torque curve are so good that a well tuned bike can do as low as 10 km/h in 4th gear without engine knocking with a pillion rider.

Still no bike can match its performance, that's why we call it The Immortal Legend.....The RX-100

Yamaha FZ pre And Post Runin and Maintanance Guide

STARTING TECHNIQUE:

For morning starts, use the ES + choke ( leave the choke for a slow count of 30 and then close the choke decrimentally till the engine is firing smoothly).

Its a good practice to first (with the ignition in the OFF position) depress the clutch and Give ES 2 times for the oil in the sump to circulate slightly.

Do not start the bike when the headlight switch is set to ON or even if the dome/pilot lamps only position is set, as it may cause both/either of your bulbs to fuse due to surge of current.

Keep the clutch depressed for some time alternating with depressing/releasing the clutch for the oil to flow between the plates.

Ride smoothly without any sudden acceleration for the first couple of kilometers, then open up.



RIDING TECHNIQUE (during and after run-in):

Below 60 kmph/4500 rpm in first 1000 km and below 70 kmph/6000 rpm for the next 1000 km (1000-2000)

Rule of thumb - during running in, never race the engine rpm to beyond half of the rpm range available (about 4500 rpm in the first 1000 km and can go as high as 5500-6000 rpm in the next 1000 km)

Sudden non-sustained bursts are OK as long as the rpm does not shoot beyond control - many even say that such bursts in the second 1000 km (with increasing frequency after about 1500 km) actually help to "open out" the engine and the usable rev-range better.

NEVER ride at a sustained speed/rpm for any length of time EVEN IF you are below the accepted limits - keep changing the RPM and speed by changing the throttle position at short intervals to prevent glazing of your piston, and also getting the various moving parts bedded down nicely at different speeds. What this does is makes the bike smooth and the power delivery seamless across the entire power band rather than just at one particular speed.

During the run-in period while u adheres to the said 4500 rpm max and speed limits, it is necessary that every gear be taken through the entire usable rpm range. After warm up for a minute or two (idle rpm will be about 1300-1500 rpm) and a slow, gradual and steady moving through the gears, after a while, a couple of kms down the road, take your bike through the rpm range (up to say 3700 during running in) for ALL gears. Do it as often as possible (the urban traffic and signals will help you in this). This does help to run-in your bike better.

There is no problem in going for long rides, but try not to run the engine non-stop for more than 40-50 minutes - preferably take a butt break, smell the roses, look around and then start off again.

Gears are very tricky things to bed in properly so preferably (at least during the run in) do not let someone else ride your bike - even if he's very gentle, his shifting technique will be different from yours and you'll be able to "feel" something amiss in the gears once you ride the bike again.

Make a proper positive effort to shift gears, just a nudge won’t do (please don’t bang your foot on them if they seem tight – ease off and try again – it always works!).

Remember, like all other moving parts, your disc brake needs to be run-in too for proper functioning at all speeds – practice using your disc at progressively higher speeds in an open area without traffic. When using the disc, remember that the handle should be straight ahead (never in a turn) and there should not be any gravel on the road, or you WILL skid. Get the FEEL of the discs and you can then use them with greater confidence.

After completing the running in, don't start ripping' your bike at 100+ immediately (a commemorative "ton" is a must though just to appease the adrenaline Gods!!!!), get your bike used to incremental increases in speed in multiples of 5 kmph and then move to the next higher speed.



THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:

Preferably wash your bike thoroughly once a week and check for any leaks, loose fastenings, etc. Do not splash water onto the bike (especially the top of the tank) with a mug or a hosepipe, either spray wash (pressure) or else wash with a wet cloth.

IMPORTANT: In the event that water does get into the tank through the filler cap or into the carb bowl, the bike will sputter and die on you a number of times afterwards. Water being heavier than petrol will collect in the carb bowl and can be drained.
PROCEDURE: First shut off the petcock (to prevent draining expensive petrol in the process!). Then loosen the screw seen immediately below the carb bowl (the lowest carb screw looking at it from the left side of the bike) and let water/petrol from the bowl drain out thru the transparent pipe leading out from the bottom of the carb. After the drainage has stopped, FIRST tighten the screw and THEN put on the petcock.

Use a car shampoo to wash your bike, not ordinary soap or any other household detergents that will dull the finish of the paint. Car shampoos with Carnauba wax are a good idea (Formula 1, Waxpol, etc.)

Keep an eye open for any leaks around the top of the engine and near the gearbox (excess chain oil also causes an oil slick to develop on the chain). Also look at the ground beneath the bike every morning to check for any oil spill (WARNING: After an oil change, make sure the drain nut has been properly tightened).

Malfunctioning switches/electricals (possible problem areas - front brake switch and starter).

Wash your tyres and top up the air pressure once a week and slowly rotate and inspect each tyre to look for cuts, cracks, embedded sharp objects, and also pebbles in the treads which should be removed.

While washing the wheels/tyres, check for loose/broken/bent spokes (check wheel trueness once in 3 months or so, especially if riding on bad roads or have hit a pothole hard/at speed).

While washing, make sure that the drain holes in the filler cap area and under the silencer are not clogged.

Get your chain-slack adjusted and chain lubricated preferably every 800 km.

Check battery fluid level at least once a month and keep an eye on the brake fluid level too (though that's just precautionary).

Make it a habit to shut off the petcock whenever you park your bike so that it becomes instinctive after a while.

Keep the bike on center stand if it is going to be parked for a long time. Also, do not park the bike on side-stand on a slight slop as the Yamaha’s has a tendency to slide forward off the side stand and fall down many a times.



PUNCTURES:

When you detect a puncture, rotate the wheel to try and find the nail and DO NOT REMOVE IT.

you can sit on the bike and ride it to the puncture wallah.

Make sure that the puncture is repaired with a plug.

Always have the black rubber caps over the valves as a second line of defense. Make sure the puncture wall replaces the split quarter pins while refitting the wheel.

IMPORTANT: In case of a front tyre puncture, be very careful that no one presses the front brake lever while the wheel is out to prevent the disc brake calipers from coming together, making it impossible to refit the front wheel. The only way to take them apart is to bleed the brake fluid and it is a complex task to be done only at an authorized service station. As a precaution, you can put something between the front brake and the handle grip. For example a small spanner between the lever and the accelerator rotor, to hold them apart.



Here Is it all,
Ride Safe And Wear A helmet.